Teddy Edward: September 2023

Yes it's finally here, part two of our trip down to the North of England. We headed south from Belper in Derbyshire to Tewkesbury.................. Yes Tewkesbury.............. in Gloucestershire; which I know isn't really considered as the North of England, but there you have it, that's where we went

Tewkesbury, Gloucester

We stayed at the Caravan and Motorhome Club site in Tewkesbury, which was right beside the famous Tewkesbury Abbey. When we were getting the van in position and building the awning I kept hearing the familiar call of a certain bird of prey. At first I couldn't place it, I knew I knew it, but it didn't register with the birds of prey that I would expect to hear in this flat, semi rural area with slow moving rivers. It wasn't a Buzzard, it wasn't a Kestral, it wasn't a Marsh Harrier or even a Hobby.

Then I got it! It was a bird I am more used to hearing in mountainous locations or even alongside sea cliffs........... It was a Peregrine Falcon! ....... and I knew exactly where to look for it. I followed the calls of the bird down towards the abbey (a man-made cliff in its own right) and there they were:

Heading towards Tewkesbury Abbey

Peregrine Falcons on Tewkesbury Abbey

Two Juvenile Peregrine being fed by an Adult Peregrine

Being right at the top of the abbey they were quite far way but I did my best to try and get some photos of this pair of young Peregrine Falcons being fed by one of the adult birds. I did also manage to get a video of these magnificent birds:

It looked to me like it was some sort of wader that they were feeding on, but it was hard to tell.

I crossed over the River Swilgate (more of a burn than a river really) to get closer to the abbey to see if I could get a better view of the Peregrines.

The River Swillgate (downstream)

The River Swilgate (upstream)

Alongside Tewkesbury Abbey

Here I could see the Peregrines a bit better, however they were silhouetted against the evening sky, making photographing them quite difficult. Just then the adult bird flew off, carrying the remains of the prey they were feeding on (no doubt it was heading off to have a bit to eat itself in peace and quiet).

I entered the abbey gardens and moved around the side until I could get a viewpoint where the sun wasn't shining directly into my eyes. Here I could clearly see the two Juvenile Peregrines on top of the abbey:

Juvenile Peregrine practice flapping

Second Juvenile Peregrine checking its talons

The young Peregrines then started to look to the skies, was the parent coming back with some more food?

Not quite, it was another Peregrine, but it was a third juvenile, one that had obviously fledged before the two younger birds. It landed right between the other two, directly under the rather large weather cock:

Third Juvenile Peregrine

Just in case you don't believe me that there were three juveniles, here's a video to prove it:

I did check the interweb later on and a local 'Abbey Peregrines' blog confirmed that there were three chicks this year and one had recently took the plunge and started to fly. It was such a privilege to see all three young birds and even an adult feeding them, a great start to our trip to Tewkesbury.

After such an exciting start we spend the next few days relaxing, checking out the town and the local surroundings. Tewkesbury sits on the confluence of two major English rivers (the Avon and the Severn) and as such has been an important trading town for hundreds of years. As well as the abbey the town still retains many of it's historic buildings and is a pleasant place to stroll through:

Some of Tewkesbury's historic buildings

Tewkesbury High Street

Pleasant walk through Tewkesbury's back streets

Post Boxes dress in style

Part of the River Avon has been canalised as it passes through the town, this gave control of the flow of water to the various mills that existed in Tewkesbury, and now provides a lovely place for taking a stroll or pottering about on boats.

River Avon Canal, Tewkesbury

Barges on River Avon Canal

Canal Basin at Abbey Mill Pond

Abbey Mill (aka Fletcher's Mill)

The original Abbey Mill was built in the 12th century to grind grain to produce flour for the monks at the Abbey. It was replaced in 1793 by the existing mill, which is no longer in use. Downstream from the mill is a nice little park called Victoria Gardens, a pleasant place to visit on a hot summer's day:

River Avon from Victoria Gardens

Downstream of Abbey Mill Weir

Moira in Victoria Gardens, Tewkesbury

Willows beside the water

The Rear of Abbey Mill

There was some wildlife to see on the river, mainly Mallards and Moorhens:

Mallard on the Avon

Another Mallard

Moorhen near Abbey Mill

Moorhen comes in for close-up

There was a couple of Moorhens in the Mill Pond as this little video shows:

Up to now we had spent most of our time near to the centre of the town, which included a visit to the Abbey to see what it was like inside. The fact is it was as interesting inside as it is on the outside, I was impressed by the number passages and rooms built into the walls of the Abbey and the history from it's construction in the early 12th century up to the present day was most interesting.

The next day we decided to go a little further afield with a walk to Tewkesbury Nature Reserve; it took less than half an hour to get there, but it was very, very warm. The nature reserve has a stream running through it (the previously mentioned River Swilgate) as well as some ponded areas surrounded by extensive reedbeds:

Tewkesbury Nature Reserve

River Swilgate

We entered the reserve at the Northwest corner and had to walk through cattle fields to get to the reedbed area. We did however spot some wildlife along the edge of the river, in the shape of some Damselflies and Dragonflies:

Male Banded Demoiselle

Scarce Chaser

The Scarce Chaser is apparently relatively scarce in many parts of the UK, however not in Tewkesbury as it was the most common Dragonfly we saw any time we were out walking. The Chaser and the Demoiselle were also vey obliging (some of the time) allowing me to get some video footage:

The weather seemed to be getting hotter and hotter but we carried on towards the reedbed area. Apart from a few pigeons and crows most of the birds seemed to be hiding away in the shade (they had more sense than us) however we did spot a Reed Bunting at the edge of the reedbed:

Reed Bunting pretending to be a Crested Tit

Reed bunting in the bushes

You'll be pleased to know that I managed to capture this on video:

We did reach as far as the reedbeds, however they were very tall and very dense, meaning that we could hear some birds deep inside them but we couldn't see them. The ponded areas on the other side of the reedbeds (if they weren't completely dried out) were also inaccessible as there appeared to be no way through the extensive reedbeds. After a while we got a bit fed up trying and as it was very hot we decided to head back to the caravan park, this time exiting from a gate on the Southwest side of the reserve.

The next day (which was our last full day in Tewkesbury) we decided to go for another 'out of town' ramble by embarking on The Severn Ham Walk. No it did not involve any ham sandwiches, it is the name given to the parcel of land that is trapped between the River Severn and the River Avon. It is effectively an island (supposedly the shape of a joint of ham) and is only accessible by the bridge across the weir at Abbey Mill.

Abbey Mill (weir bridge on right hand side)

Boats and Barges at Abbey Mill Pond

Thomas the Tank Boat?

It was a lovely day so we crossed the weir bridge and headed along the path beside the River Avon Canal:

Heading along the Severn Ham Walk

Moira on Severn Ham, Tewkesbury

We followed the path North alongside the Avon River Canal until it turned West and headed towards the River Severn, looking back we could see across the grassland towards the Abbey:

Looking across the Grassland to Tewkesbury Abbey

When we first reached the Severn it was at a point where the vegetation alongside the river was quite overgrown, making it difficult to see the river at all. We did manage to find a little fishing platform that gave us access to the river and also provided some photo opportunities:

Fishing Platform on River Severn

Scarce Chaser

Male Banded Demoiselle

Female Banded Demoiselle

Couldn't resist getting a video of the Chaser when we were there:

A bit further along the river's edge the vegetation opened up and we could get a clearer view of the Severn; which is apparently Britain's longest River (but is not the largest by volume flow in Britain, that honour lies with the River Tay). It is a majestic river though:

The River Severn at Tewkesbury

The River Severn approaching Upper Lode Lock

You may have noticed a large sign in the above photo, advising boaters to take the right hand fork in the river, the reason for this will become apparent shortly. In the meantime here is some of the wildlife we spotted here:

Small Tortoiseshell Butterfly

Yet another Banded Demoiselle

Comma Butterfly in the nettles

Just as I was photographing these a barge came chugging down the river:

Barge on the River Severn

Barging Along the River

Luckily they took the right-hand fork in the river and avoided what we discovered a few hundred yards downstream:

Not sure that I would want to go over that weir in a barge, or any kind of boat for that matter.

In a tree near to the weir I heard a Reed Bunting singing:

Reed Bunting in a Tree

Here's the singing bit:

Scarce Chaser, Banded Demoiselle and Singing Reed Bunting, getting a bit of deja vu here, need to see what else I can find. I looked across the extensive area of grassland and decided that we need to cut across the bottom of the Severn Ham and head back towards the River Avon:

The Grasslands of Severn Ham

Heading back towards The River Avon and Abbey Mill

It was a warm, hard slog but we finally got back to the crossing point on the River Avon at Abbey Mill.

River Avon at Abbey Mill

Here I heard a Sedge Warbler singing in amongst the reeds, although it was proving difficult to pinpoint, but finally I got it:

Sedge Warbler in the Reeds

Sedge Warbler, Abbey Mill Pond, Tewkesbury

Even got it on video:

That was basically it for a very enjoyable stay at Tewkesbury, early the next morning we headed Up North (and uphill) to the North Yorkshire Dales.

Hawes, North Yorkshire

We were up and down a few dales before we got to Hawes, which I understand is in Wensleydale, which makes sense because the Wensleydale Creamery (home of Wallace's favourite cheese) is located nearby.

We stayed at the Motorhome and Caravan Club site at Brunt Acre Road and were allocated a prime pitch with a great view down the valley:

View from our Motorhome Pitch at Hawes

We got the van all set up, had a bite to eat and went out for a little stroll around the nearby area:

Stone Barn near the Caravan Park

Flagstone Path through the Sheep Field

Brandymires House on Brunt Acre Road

Gayle Beck running through Hawes

That was enough exploring for one evening, we left some for the next day.

Early the next day we headed into Hawes and found a map which aided our plans for a morning walk. We decided to try the walk over the hill to the Creamery in Gayle:

Map of Hawes

Little Waterfall on Gayle Beck

Heading into Hawes Town Centre

We headed up passed St Margaret's Church on onto the path heading to Gayle (which forms part of the Pennine Way.

Flagstone Path to Gayle

View from Pennine Way

Weird Sheep Haircut

View from Pennine Way behind Hawes

We reached the Wensleydale Creamery and went in for a look around the shop, we decided against the tour of the creamery itself but parted with a few pounds in the shop buying things you don't really need (but no cheese?). The cafe was very busy so we decided to head back to Hawes for something to eat, luckily there was a slightly shorter route back the way:

Heading back from Wensleydale Creamery

"The Hawes Are Alive"

Approaching Hawes across the Fields.

We were going to have something to eat in Hawes but the town was heaving, full of day trippers and hill walkers as it was Sunday. We went back to the van and made ourselves something to eat, followed by a relaxing afternoon.

In the evening we ventured back into Hawes to have something to eat, took a few pics on the way there and on the way back:

View from Picnic Area in Caravan Park

View down Wensleydale

Otter (of the concrete variety)

Old Station (now part of Dales Countryside Museum)

On the way back I saw this Thrush hopping about in a field near the Caravan Park, looking for worms and insects to eat:

Thrush in the field

Is it a Song Thrush or a Mistle Thrush? perhaps the video will help:

It's a Song Thrush of course.

The next day was our last full day at Hawes and as the weather was good we decided to go on a slightly longer walk to the nearby village of Hardraw. This started with a walk along Burnt Acres Road, which follows the route of Gayle Beck until it joins the River Ure, at which point we crossed over the river:

Heading North down Burnt Acres Road

Moira on Burnt Acres Road

The River Ure, near Hawes

Shortly after crossing the River Ure (yes there was a bridge!) we went through a gate and headed West across the fields:

Heading West across the fields

Thumbs Up for the Wensleydale Countryside

View of Wensleydale

We crossed over several fields and passed through many gates/stiles on this walk (which forms part of the Pennine Way), until we reached some old buildings on the outskirts of Hardraw.

Flagstone Path on the way to Hardraw

Moira on the Pennine Way

Approaching the outskirts of Hardraw

We entered the village right next to Hardraw Beck, where we stopped for a break and took some photos:

View of Hardraw Beck from Bridge

The Green Dragon Inn, Hardraw

It's not a big place Hardraw, really just a collection of a few houses, more of a Hamlet, but it does have a bit of history:

Let's start with the Green Dragon Inn; a traditional Dales Inn, built in the 13th century with flagstone floors, chunky, stone walls, big beams and open fireplaces. It appears to have had very little in the way of an upgrade since the 13th century, apart from the signage from the 1960's referring to the "Hippies".

Entrance to the Green Dragon Inn

As it was nearly lunchtime and we were not too "Hippy-ish" we decided to pop in for a spot of lunch. Unfortunately no food was being served that day, so we had to settle for a pint of real ale and a bag of crisps, but who was complaining?

The interior of the pub is as described previously, but it did get tarted up a little bit (very little) when it featured as the interior of "The Drovers Arms" in the recent remake of "All Creatures Great and Small". Probably why they kept the Hippies out.

Behind the pub there is a track that leads to another famous place in Hardraw, it is the longest, single-drop waterfall in England, and it's called Hardraw Force:

You have been warned

Following Hardraw Beck towards Hardraw Force

Mallard Duck and Duckings on Hardraw Beck.

On the way up to the waterfall we passed this little band of ducks, which were making their way downstream across the water and rocks, which must have been like shooting the rapids for the small ducklings. Which made for a very funny video when the last duckling got it's foot tangled in some weed and fell behind the rest of them:

Don't worry, no ducklings were harmed in the making of this video.

We carried on up the path until we reached the falls, which I have to say weren't at their most impressive due to the recent dry weather. Another visitor to the falls offered to take our photo:

Hardraw Force, near Hawes

Grey Wagtail at Hardraw Force

Us Yins at Hardraw Force

It would have been good to see it in full flow, but there you have it.

The video I took wasn't much better, and you will have to lie down to appreciate it:

Hardraw Force has another claim to fame; it was featured in the 1991 film "Robin Hood Prince of Thieves" when Kevin Costner decided to have his early morning shower/bath under the waterfall, whilst Maid Marion watched on from the side.

Moira was disappointed that Kevin Costner was not bathing when she was there. I did not volunteer to replicate the scene.

On the way back from the waterfall we passed this curious log of coins.