Gems of The Fife Coast

 At the end of August we took the motorhome over to Fife for a few days break at Silverdyke Caravan Park in Cellardyke. This area is part of the East Neuk of Fife and contains picturesque villages and towns such as Anstruther, Pittenweem, Crail and of course Cellardyke. 

Cellardyke gets its name from the practice of herring fishermen drying their nets on nearby walls. The herring nets would deposit silver fish scales on the walls (or dykes) which would shine in the sun. The place became known as Silverdyke, local pronunciation led to it being written down as Cellardyke.

Once we got settled in at the caravan park we took a stroll down to Cellardyke Harbour, commonly known as Skinfast Haven:

How the Harbour has Developed Over the Years

Skinfast Haven

Like many of Fife's coastal harbours Skinfast Haven has changed and developed over the centuries and this former fishing port has become a popular tourist attraction and you are more likely to see yachts, kayaks and other pleasure crafts than fishing vessels.

I loved the different types of stonework on the slipway, from natural rock to cobbles to concrete, more evidence of continual use over the centuries:

Various materials used on slipway

I also loved the fact that the 'drying greens' on the harbour were still in use, albeit for clothes rather than fishing gear and nets:

Skinfast Haven in Cellardyke

Eddie at Skinfast Haven

After exploring the harbour we walked along George Street heading in the direction of Anstruther:

George Street, Cellardyke

Sharps Close, off George Street

A little further along we reached Toolbooth Wynd where we could access views of the sea once again:

View from Tollbooth Wynd

Looking South Towards North Berwick

Moira at Tollbooth Wynd, Cellardyke

We carried on along James Street until we reached the East Shore of Anstruther:

Anstruther's East Shore

Isle of May from East Shore, Anstruther

Just round the coast from the East Shore we reached Anstuther Harbour and the thriving tourist hotspot of Shore Street.

Anstruther Harbour and Shore Street

Boats in Anstruther Harbour

Anstruther Harbour contains a mixture of boats, as well as the ubiquitous yachts and pleasure cruisers there are also working vessels that fish for crabs, lobsters and prawns. There is even an historic 'Fifie' fishing boat which is almost 100 years old. You can find out about this in the fisheries museum on East Shore (well worth a visit).

What I really enjoyed was the names given to some of the boats in the harbour, see if you can spot which are leisure crafts and which are working boats:

Brrrmbrrrm (named by a child?)

Mary Doll (Rab C's boat?)

Feckin Boat (maybe a bit tempremental?)

We had a walk along to the end of the pier to take another couple of photos:

Towards Castle Street and the Dreel Burn

Towards Anstruther Golf Club

Moira from Anstruther Harbour Wall

We headed back to the caravan park for a little relaxation and a bite to eat.

After we were fed and watered we took an evening stroll back down to the shoreline at Cellardyke, this time we headed Northerly along the Fife Coastal Path towards Caplie. First stop was at the Cellardyke Tidal Pool, known locally as 'The Bathie'. This old tidal swimming pool has recently been restored and is popular with wild swimmers, and those that just like a cold bath:

Cellardyke Tidal Pool (The Bathie)

Tidal Pool with Isle of May in background

We then walked a little way along the Coastal Path, enjoying the scenery and the setting sun:

Welcome to Cellardyke

Towards Caiplie

Rocky Shoreline at Kilrenny

Before we reached Caplie we noticed that the sun was setting fast we decided to head back to the caravan park:

Moira at Sundown

Evening Shoreline

Sunset over Silverdyke

Time for a beer, then off to bed.

The next morning we weren't up too early and had a bit of a lazy morning before heading out towards Anstruther. It was a bit of a funny morning weather-wise; it was bright enough but a mist or haar seemed to be hanging over the water. 

We milled about Anstruther a bit before deciding to have a spot of 'brunch' at the Waterfront Restaurant. Suitably fed and watered we decided to tackle the Fife Coastal Path to Pittenweem. Our first challenge was to walk along the beach and cross the Dreel Burn Stepping Stones.

The Beach below Castle Street, Anstruther

Dreel Burn Stepping Stones

Now, I have done this crossing in the past, when the tide was in and the water flowing down the Dreel Burn covered the stepping stones by a few inches. It was scary. This time however the tide was out and the Dreel Burn was a trickle............... not scary!

Crossing the Dreel Burn Stepping Stones

Dreel Burn Stepping Stones Successfully Crossed

It was easy-peasy provided you avoided the slippy seaweed.

We then headed along Shore Road towards the Golf Course and Billowness. As we stopped at the beach at Billowness to enjoy the views we could see that the mist was starting to roll in from the sea (oh! Mull of Kintyre ..........oops, sorry about that, wrong place).

The Golf Club at Billowness

The Beach at Billowness

Moira at Billowness

As we continued along the coastal path to the headland we could see how far the mist was now shrouding parts of the coastline.

Saltire on the Billowness Headland

A little further along the coastal path we came across an impromptu art installation, which I guess was produced by a fan of the Electric Light Orchestra utilising the bounty from a nearby shell beach:

A Jeff Lynne Creation?

Shell Beach near Pittenweem

By now the mist was cloaking the rocks in a very spooky manner, so we made haste to the port of Pittenweem:

Spooky Mist-covered Rocks

When we arrived at Pittenweem Harbour it was back in 1850 when photography was in its infancy. The fishing boats were moored up, unable to set sail because of the fog:

A Misty Pittenweem Harbour

Just joking it was only 12:30 (almost lunchtime) and everything was in colour (just a bit misty):

The Boats in Pittenweem Harbour

We carried on along Mid Shore to the House on the Rock:

The House on The Rock

Moira on the Slipway at Pittenweem

Normally the views out to sea from here are fantastic, but on this day they were a bit limited:

Sea View from Pittenweem?

What was fascinating (to me anyway) was the rock formations that created a natural slipway, which has been enhanced by fishermen over the centuries:

View down Slipway to the Sea

Looking back up the Slipway towards Pittenweem

This may well have been the reason why Pittenweem exists, a natural slipway where fishermen could safely bring in their boats and unload their catch.

The mist did not seem like it was going to clear so we had to chose whether to continue on the coastal path or not.

Coastal Path continues along the West Shore

 

Pittenweem Harbour (becoming even more misty)

We decided against continuing further along the shore and made our way back up to the high ground and walked the main A917 back to Anstruther, then on to Cellardyke.

Safely back at the motorhome we cooked ourselves some dinner and settled in for a relaxing night.

The next morning most of the mist had disappeared, with just a haze over the water. After breakfast and doing our chores (caravanners and motorhomers will know what these chores are) we decided to go for a stroll along the Fife Coastal Path heading in the opposite direction, towards Crail. 

As we were meeting up with friends in the afternoon we knew that we did not have time to reach Crail (and back) but we headed in that direction:

Moira on The Fife Coastal Path near Caiplie

Looking back towards Cellardyke

We enjoyed the views:

Isle of May

We enjoyed the wildflowers:

Autumnal Wildflowers

Harebell on Fife Coastal Path

And I even managed to get some videos of wildlife (well birds at least) such as this Curlew at Caiplie:

And this Redshank on the shore near Kilrenny:

On our way back to the motorhome I snapped these lovely views from the War Memorial just down from the caravan park:

Looking North towards Caplie

Looking South towards Cellardyke

Such a beautiful coastal area.

After a spot of lunch in the motorhome we headed out to meet up with our friends Ken and Amanda at the Haven Bar for a few drinks. They are lucky enough to live in Anstruther so it was and ideal place to meet.

We enjoyed a lovely afternoon drinking and chatting in the beer garden at the Haven Bar and really was the icing on the cake in what had been a wonderful visit to Fife's East Neuk.

We will be back, again and again.

Take Care

Teddy Edward