North Berwick and St Abbs

 It seems such a long time ago, but back in early October we took the motorhome to an area of Scotland that we really hadn't visited much before. It was to East Lothian and in particular to North Berwick; where we had booked into Tantallon Caravan Park for a few nights. 

It was a bit overcast when we got there and a trifle windy as well. that didn't stop us from going out for a wander as soon as we got the van parked up.

Tantallon Caravan Park, North Berwick

It was a lot bigger site than we are used to, with a combination of static caravans (private as well as rental) and many touring pitches. It was pretty empty and quiet at this time of year but I can imagine that it can be very busy in Summer months. They had a decent play area for kids and even a small games room for the typical Scottish summer days (i.e. rainy):

Decent Play Park for the kids

You can play Tipping Point in the Games Room

The site also boasted some brilliant views of local landmarks:

North Berwick Law from Tantallon Caravan Park

North Berwick Law

Bass Rock from Tantallon Caravan Park

Bass Rock

Both of these geological features are Volcanic Plugs of solidified molten rock, formed along the same volcanic fault line as Arthur's Seat and Castle Rock in Edinburgh.

Bass Rock is renowned as the breeding colony for over a hundred thousand Northern Gannets, the largest in the world for this species. Most of these had since headed south to warmer climes, with only a few juvenile birds still hanging around.

We headed out of the caravan park and through the golf course path towards the town of North Berwick. We kept an eye out for any wildlife and other interesting views:

Moira ready for a walk

A view of Craigleith Island through the bushes

Moira checking for wildlife

There was very little wildlife to see as it was very windy and any sensible creature was laying low. We did however see a little Rabbit near the caravans and some Oystercatchers on the golf course:

Young Rabbit near Static Caravans

Cute Bunny (if you like that sort of thing!)

Oystercatchers on Golf Course

Cute Oystercatcher?

We carried on down the golf course path until we could get a good view down the Firth towards North Berwick:

North Berwick from The Glen Golf Course

Craigleith from The Glen Golf Course

Craigleith is another of the 'lava domed' islands created from volcanic activity many moons ago. It also is a great place to see Puffins as there is a breeding colony on the island (in the summer that is; not in October unfortunately).

We carried on down the golf course path until we reached the headland at the east end of Haugh Road Beach. Here we watched some Carrion Crows squabbling in the bushes on the hillside:

Headland to the East of Haugh Road Beach

You lookin' at me?

It was getting very windy and some rain was blowing through the wind, so I snapped another couple of photos before we headed back to the motorhome.

North Berwick from the headland

Craigleith Island from the headland

Back at the motorhome we had our evening meal and settle in for a quiet night; apart from the fact it was blowing a hoolie outside with heavy rain to boot.

The next morning was a bit brighter, so after breakfast (and the usual camping chores) we heading back down through the golf course to North Berwick:

Heading into North Berwick

At this time of day the tide was out so we got a good view of the beach at Haugh Road as we headed towards the town.

Haugh Road Beach with Bass Rock in the distance

Looking towards Fife from Haugh Road Beach

We continued along Haugh Road until we reached the town:

Heading along Haugh Road to North Berwick

After a swatch around the shops (plenty of independent shops here) and a spot of lunch we continued to explore North Berwick, starting with the West Bay area:

Moira at West Bay, North Berwick

Looking towards the harbour from West Bay

Looking towards North Berwick Law from West Bay

We then explored the beach at West Bay:

West Bay Beach, North Berwick

We took a leisurely stroll along the beach towards the harbour area, coming off the beach at the Lifeboat Station:

Picturesque Lifeboat Station

North Berwick Lifeboat Station

After purchasing a few items at the Lifeboat Shop we headed to the Harbour area, enjoying a few interesting sculptures on the way:

Have you got anything?

Just a Bronze Tern!

At the harbour area we popped into the the Scottish Seabird Centre which was pretty quiet; not much happening when all the Puffins and Gannets have left their breeding colonies. Still plenty see around the harbour area though:

Beach Huts (including Lobster Nursery!)

Crashing Waves

Boats in North Berwick Harbour

Waving Seal and Tidal Pool

Tidal Pool and North Berwick Law

I wonder if the waving seal was the one we saw in Cullen Harbour?

There was also some good views of the islands in the Firth of Forth:

Islands just off North Berwick, including Fidra & Craigleith

Isle of May in the distant mist

Bass Rock in the distance

Bass Rock Close-up

Some seabirds could still be seen, especially those that are happy to live year-round in the coastal areas of Scotland:

Eiders off North Berwick Harbour

Drake Eider

Drake and Duck

It was a bit cold and windy on the harbour wall so we didn't dwell too long before heading back along Haugh Road to the Caravan Park:

Haugh Road Beach and Bass Rock

I did spot a couple of birds on the shoreline, but it was very blustery and hard to photograph:

Carrion Crow and Oystercatcher

Oystercatcher

Not sure, but the video might be a bit better:

A bit clearer, but you can here the wind in the background.

Back at the van we had some dinner and a quiet night in, apart from the noise of the wind and rain.

The next day we had a lazy morning, apart from all the usual chores. In the afternoon we headed back down into North Berwick, but this time we took the bus (which picks up not far from the caravan park entrance). 

We visited the Coastal Communities Museum (which was very interesting) , did a bit of shopping and had a drink in the Ship Inn before heading to the Grange Restaurant and Steakhouse for an early evening meal.

Afterwards we got the bus back up to the caravan park.

The next morning we got the van ready for the road and headed out for a day trip to Dunbar and St Abbs. It was still damp and windy so we were glad we were able to take the van to where we wanted to go.

We parked near the harbour at Dunbar then went out for a walk along the High Street. I understand that it wasn't peak tourist season but I was quite disappointed by the number of shops that were closed. Not just the shops, there were very few places where you could get something to eat. Most hotels/bars were either closed or not serving food and the few cafes that were open were only doing coffee and cake. We ended up in the local fish and chip shop for lunch, which was fine but not what we were looking for.

After lunch we got back in the van and headed south to St Abbs. We were quite fortunate to get a decent parking spot for the van down in the harbour area of this historic little fishing village. Whilst a few creels of lobster and crab are still landed at St Abbs, it is mainly leisure vessels that are kept within the harbour walls:

Boats in St Abbs Harbour

Fishing Boats at St Abbs

Outer Harbour Wall, St Abbs

There are also a few diving charter boats kept in the harbour as the wrecks offshore (as well as the marine life) are very popular with divers.

There is a lifeboat station in St Abbs, but it is lot different from the one in North Berwick:

The Lifeboat Station at St Abbs Harbour

St Abbs Lifeboat Station

For a start it is much less ornate that the Lifeboat Station in North Berwick, but is just as practical and functional. The main difference is that (unlike North Berwick and many other lifeboat stations) this on is not run by RLNI but is owned and operated independently by the local community.

Having had a lifeboat station since 1911 the RNLI decided to withdraw the St Abbs service in 2015, claiming that the area could be served by the larger Eyemouth lifeboat a few miles further along the coastline. 

The people of St Abbs did not think that this was a suitable alternative considering the dangers of the rocky shore in the area and the number of vessels (such as chartered diving boats) that used the area. So a charity was set up to provide an independent lifeboat service in 2016. One of the main donors to this charity was Thomas Tunnock & Sons (of teacake and caramel wafer fame), and the current boat is named 'Thomas Tunnock'.

Enough about the harbour just now, we decided to head up the hill to the new visitor centre:

Moira at St Abbs Harbour

The views from the visitor centre are great; you can look back down at the harbour. along the rugged coastline or out towards the North Sea:

St Abbs Harbour from the Visitor Centre

Harbour Entrance

Rugged Coastline at St Abbs

Northfield House and St Abbs Bay

When I say it is a new visitor centre, the building is not new as it use to be the old village hall. It is a small centre but the staff are very friendly, and various displays tell the story of the people of St Abbs over the generations.

One really striking feature is the sculpture that sits outside the visitor centre; it is a huge slab of a sculpture with small statuettes of people on top of it. It was created by artist Jill Watson and depicts the widows and bairns left behind when many ships were lost during the great storm of 1881. 

Sculpture by Jill Watson

It is best viewed in the context of the rugged shoreline it overlooks:

Rugged Shoreline at St Abbs

Widows and Bairns after Storm of 1881

A chilling reminder of the dangers of the sea.

On a lighter note we headed back down the hill for some delicious coffee and cake in Ebbcars Cafe on the harbour front, after which we jumped in the motorhome and headed back to the caravan park at North Berwick.

That's basically that for our trip to North Berwick and St Abbs (won't dwell on Dunbar visit) so I will be signing off now until the New Year.

Merry Christmas to you all and I hope you have a Happy New Year.

Cheers

Teddy Edward